Installation of A-11350 Special Replacement Starter (Bendix) Drive

Installation of A-11350 Special Replacement Starter (Bendix) Drive

On Model “A” cars and trucks in production since early October, 1928, the A-11350-C 8/10 pitch bendix drive has been used. For this drive the starting motor armature shaft has a diameter of 5/8-inch. This drive has a special form of ten tooth pinion and we call your attention to the fact that it is not inter- changeable with the standard 8/10 pitch ten tooth pinion T-1883.

Complete starting motors, as now used on Model ” A ” production since October 1st, 1928, can not be assembled on cars and trucks produced prior to October 1st, because of the change in the flywheel. Present starting motors with the 11350-C drive can only be used with the present design of flywheel.

Dealers who are reworking armature shafts for installing special bendix drive A-11350 must use especial care in performing this important operation. Recently some cases of broken armature shafts have been reported. Investigation in each instance showed that no radius had been left at the 4 1/2-inch line (see Fig. 611).

The following instructions have been care- fully worked out and must be closely followed :

Installation Instructions

The A-11350-DR bendix drive is a special type for replacing the Abell starter drive used on Model “A” cars and trucks manufactured previous to October, 1928. Its installation requires reoperation of the armature shaft and of the end bearing of the starting motor; for that reason the following instructions should be closely followed. There are two types of Ford Model “A” starting motors on which this 11350-DR drive can be mounted, the first type having a ball bearing in the starting motor end plate and the second a plain bear- ing. Ball bearing equipped starting motors can be easily distinguished from the plain bearing type by noting the ball beating retainer plate which is bolted to the end plate. The reoperation of these two starting motors for installation of the 11350-DR drive is slightly different as noted on next page.


  1. Remove armature from starting motor and withdraw bearing from armature shaft — bearing can be forced off by dropping the end of the armature shaft on a lead block.
  2. Before turning down armature shaft make certain it is not bent—if any such condition is shown when the shaft is indicated on centers, shaft should be straightened before starting reoperation.
  3. The file-hard surface of the portion to be turned down can be ground off, thus making the turning operation much easier.
  4. With the armature mounted in a lathe, turn down the enlarged portion of the shaft to a diameter of .494—.498 or flush with exist- ing diameter a t the outer end, and back to a point exactly 4 1/2 inches from the center of the pilot screw hole in the armature shaft (see Fig. 611). Note 1/32-inch to 1/16-inch radius at the shoulder as shown below and described later. Do not try to remove all the metal in one cut, also make the last cut a very light one; this helps to obtain the correct diameter and to keep the surface as smooth as possible. The turned down diameter should merge into the similar existing diameter at the outer end without leaving any shoulder or tool marks of any kind at the point where the turning started.
  5. In completing the turning operation care must be exercised not to mar the surface of the shaft back of the 41/2-inch line, inasmuch as this is the bearing portion of the armature shaft. Leave a radius of between 1/32-inch and 1/16-inch at the 4 1/2-inch line where the larger diameter merges into the newly turned diameter (see Fig. 611). Do not leave a sharp tool mark at this point and avoid any under- cutting of the shaft because this results in possible breakage of the shaft at any such weak point. The radius is of special importance, inasmuch as it strengthens the shaft at the point of the change in diameter
  6. After completing the turning operation smooth the newly turned diameter by a light touch with a file with the shaft turning in a lathe.
  7. Before reassembling armature shaft remove all chips and dirt which may have wedged in between the armature wires—re-assemble the ball bearing up against the shoulder on the armature shaft and make sure it is well packed with lubricant.
  8. In assembling the motor use a new ball bearing retainer plate, part No. A-11133-R, or bore out the present plate to a diameter of 1 r^-inch so that the stop nut on the end of the bendix drive can pass through this retainer plate (see fig. 612)
  9. Before assembling the bendix drive on the starting motor, rub a little grease or oil on the armature shaft so as to prevent any rusting between the bendix shaft and the armature shaft. Do not place any lubricant on the screw threads on the shaft. When assembled, the stop nut of the bendix drive should be against the shoulder on the armature shaft at the 4 1/2-inch line, but in assembling the drive it should not be necessary to compress the spring more than 1/16-inch. If you must compress the spring more than 1/16-inch to insert the spring screw pilot end into the armature shaft, you will find one of the following conditions present: (a) The 4 1/2-inch dimension on the armature shaft is undersize, (b) the ball bearing end plate has not been replaced or the hole bored larger or, (c) in case the starting motor is of the plain bearing type, additional metal should probably be removed from the bearing boss (as described later). When the bendix drive has been completely assembled, compress the gear and shaft portion backward, then release it and make certain the drive freely resumes its original position. An armature shaft diameter of over .498-inch or a bent shaft restricts the free sliding movement of the gear and shaft portion of the drive on the armature shaft and this results in failure to mesh and damage to the pinion and flywheel gears.
  10. In assembling the bendix drive, make certain that the two logs on the end of the head portion fit into the slot of the sleeve portion—turn down the head screw until it holds the spring tightly in place and bend up the lip of the lock washer against a a flat side of the head of the screw (See Fig. 614). A new Woodfruff key, No. 5 should be used if the old one is sheared or damaged. In assembly of the head portion, make certain the Woodruff key fits into the keyway slot of the head and that the key is not pushed forward into the space between the head and sleeve. With no Woodruff Key connection between the bendix drive head and the armature shaft the driving torque is transferred to the pilot of the screw which will soon shear under such conditions.

((612 + 613 + 614))

Installation of Plain Bearing Starting Motors

Follow the same instructions listed in para- graphs Nos. 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, and 10, omitting No. 1, and substitute the following for No. 8 paragraph:

The face of the plain bearing or boss portion of the starting motor end plate must be cut back a distance of 9/64-inch in order to provide the necessary space for the assembly of the replacement drive. It is best to do this operation in a lathe, being careful after completing it to remove any burr which might have been thrown into the bearing itself. Note Fig. 613 showing that the distance between the mounting face of the end plate and the end of the boss must be 11/64-inch after completing the facing operation.

In reassembling the starting motor on the engine, remove any shims which may have been used between the starting motor flange and the flange on the flywheel housing.

Before installing, the starting motor, the flywheel ring gear teeth should be carefully inspected. It is of course difficult to note the meshing or back end of the teeth from the starting motor hole, but with the aid of a mirror this can be accomplished. If the flywheel teeth are badly damaged, a new ring gear should be installed. Meshing of the pinion gear takes place at two opposite points on the flywheel ring gear and if the teeth at these points are only slightly burred, the worst of these burrs can probably be removed by using a small file—any filing should be in the same direction as the original chamfer and no chamfer should be filed on the side of the tooth originally left unchamfered.

It has been called to our attention that some dealers are attempting to replace the former starter drives on the Model “A” by reoperating the T-1883 type bendix as used on the Ford, Model “T,” or in some cases reoperating other type bendix drives We have noted the results of this attempted reoperation in several instances and wish to advise that the reoperation of any such type bendix for use on the Model “A” car is not only inadvisable but must be discontinued at once

Windshield Wiper Installation on Open Cars

Several changes have been made in the electric windshield wiper for open cars. These changes slightly alter the installation instructions contained in the May Bulletin.

When installing the present electric wiper on open cars, it will be necessary to drill a 1/4-inch hole on the inside of the windshield support 3 1/2 inches below the centerline of the windshield wing nut. This 3 1/2-inch dimension must be observed to avoid conflicting with the installation of windshield wings.

With the exception of these changes the windshield wiper instructions contained in the May Bulletin apply to the present wiper.

Breaker Arm Assembly


As an added protection against car theft, the distributor breaker arm spring is now riveted

around the breaker arm spring stud (see A, Fig. 588), the thickness of the head of the stud increased and the stud case hardened.

These changes add two more parts to the breaker arm assembly, namely, breaker arm spring A-12169 and breaker arm spring stud A-12157.

To install the new breaker arm assembly, it is necessary to remove the breaker plate assembly. This, of course, will necessitate retiming the ignition.

Installing Piston Pins


Under no circumstances should a hammer be used on the piston pin pilot and driver when installing a piston pin. Immersing the piston in boiling water for a minute or two will expand the piston pin hole sufficiently to permit easy installation.

To correctly install pin first insert the piston pin pilot and driver through piston pin hole as shown in Fig. 618, then place pin over end of pilot (see Fig. 619) and push piston pin into place.


Engine Cylinder Head Nuts

A blown out cylinder head gasket can invariably be traced to failure to securely tighten cylinder head nuts, particularly during the first 50 miles a new car is driven. During this period the new cylinder head gasket becomes slightly compressed, as a result all of the cylinder head nuts can be taken up several times until the gasket obtains a permanent set. This also applies when a new cylinder head gasket is installed in an old car.

After completing a drive-away trip, instruct your mechanics to go over all of the cylinder head nuts and see that they are securely tightened. An additional check should also be made before delivering the new car to the owner, and again when the car is brought in for inspection.

The nuts should be tightened with the engine thoroughly warmed up. When tighten- ing the nuts it is of course understood that excessive force should not be applied, as there would be a possibility of damaging either a stud or nut.

Tire Service

Tire Service

Are you stressing to owners the importance of regularly checking tire pressures and keep- ing all tires inflated to 35 pounds?

Recently a representative of one of the tire companies checked the inflation pressures on more than 400 tires on Ford owners’ cars and found pressures varying all the way from 13 to 55 pounds.

Does this condition exist among your customers?

Tires must be properly mounted


Here are two examples of incorrect tire mounting. Fig. 620 shows what happens to an inner tube when a tire is inflated before it is properly centered on the rim.

In this case after mounting the tire, the mechanic failed to work the casing back and forth until the beads on the tire were seated on the rim bead seats, indicated by the red line on the casing showing an even distance from the rim all around on both sides. The result was that the tube was inflated while the beads on the tire were still in the rim well and as the air pressure was applied the tube attempted to push the tire out of the well with the result the tube was pinched beneath the bead, causing it to take a permanent set as shown in Fig. 620. This condition can be eliminated by first applying one or two pounds of air or just enough to. round out the tube, then shaking the casing to make sure it is raised out of the well, then inflating to recommended pressure.

Fig. 621 shows the result of carelessly mounting a tire on the rim with the valve stem cocked to one side instead of extending straight out from the tube.

When a tire is inflated with the valve stem cocked to one side, the bridge washer at the bottom of the valve stem cuts into the tube (see Fig. 621) and as the pressure increases, while the tire is being inflated, the washer either cuts through the tube or badly weakens it.

All tires used as original equipment on the Model ” A ” have a soft gum feather edge placed on the casing bead. Under no circumstances must this soft edge be removed. If it is removed chafing of the tube will result.


Battery Bracket

Fig. 589 shows the new design battery bracket. The old design bracket will not be carried for service. Should an occasion arise where it is necessary to replace an old style bracket with the new design the new bracket can be easily installed as follows:

Drill one 25/64 inch hole in center cross

member at point shown in Fig. 590. Next bolt the new support to the center cross member and the frame side member. The rear stud in the battery bracket is inserted through the 25/64 inch drilled hole in the center cross member and fastened in place with washer A-22245 and nut A-21741. The opposite side of the battery bracket is bolted to the frame (see Fig. 589), using bolt A-20705, lockwasher A-22217 and nut A-21702. The bolt is inserted through the forward one of the two drilled holes in the frame. See Fig. 590.


Removing Rear Hub and Brake Drum Assembly

Before installing puller to remove rear hub and brake drum assembly, remove axle shaft nut, and screw it onto the axle shaft with the castles on the nut pointing inward (see Fig. 591). The nut should be screwed down until it is flush with end of shaft, then apply puller in the regular way. Placing nut on shaft prevents mushrooming or swelling end of shaft when pulling off drum.


Installing Drag Link

To provide additional clearance between drag link and front brake shaft housing, the end of the drag link, which was formerly assembled to the rear, is now assembled to the front. This necessitated relocating the lubricator fittings so they would be easily accessible when the position of the drag link was reversed.

When installing a new drag link, note that on one end of the drag link the opening for the ball arm is approximately 3/8 inch from the end of the drag link (this end must be assembled to the spindle arm). On the opposite end the opening is approximately 1 3/8” inches from the end of the link (this end is assembled to the steering gear arm). See Fig. 592.


Model A Engine Lubrication


For correct engine lubrication a high grade, well refined oil is absolutely essential.

As a guide to the proper viscosity or body of oil for summer and winter conditions, which vary for different territories, the lubrication charts of reputable oil companies should be consulted. In general, an oil having the body of S. A. E. viscosity No. 40 corresponds approximately to our M-515-A and B and is accordingly recommended for summer use.

For winter use, S. A. E. oil specifications No. 20 can be used. It is necessary, however, for winter use, that such an oil have a low cold set.

A large number of oil companies are stamping containers and indicate on their charts S. A. E. numbers. This practice is desirable because of the fact that it assists the owner to obtain the proper oil for his engine.

Shock Absorber Adjustment

Cold weather adjustment for cars equipped with shock absorbers having square end needle valve is made as follows:

Rear shock absorbers—Screw needle valve in until it seats, then back valve off 1/2 to 5/8 of a turn.

Front shock absorbers—screw needle valve in until it seats, then back valve off 3/8 of a turn.

Shock absorbers provided with needle valve pointers—set rears at 3 to 4, fronts 2 to 3.

Check level of glycerine in reservoir. Every 5000 miles the level of the glycerine in the reservoir should be brought up to the filler plug opening.


See that the electrolyte in the battery is at the proper level and all connections are clean and tight.

Engine Oil:

See that the oil pan is filled with the proper grade of winter engine oil (see page 291, October Bulletin).


See that hose connections are tight and in sections where freezing weather prevails that the radiator is filled with anti-freeze solution.

New Flexible Front End Support

new Flexible Front End Support

One of the problems which has constantly confronted automobile engineers is to prevent Engine vibration being transmitted to the chassis. The latest Model ” A ” improvement along this line is the introduction of a flexible front end support for the engine. The upper half of this support is bolted to the cylinder front cover. The lower half of the support is sup- ported on the cross member by flexible springs (see Fig. 597). These springs allow the engine a free vertical motion, yet hold it within definite limits. The result is an engine support that is simple in design and operation and frees the car from unpleasant vibration periods.

The support is standard on all new cars and trucks and can be easily installed on cars not so equipped by proceeding as follows:

The list price of the support complete with parts is $1.65. The labor charge to the customer for installation must not exceed $6.00.

Instructions for Installing:

  1. Drain water from radiator
  2. Remove hood.
  3. Take out mat and floor boards.
  4. Disconnect either the battery cable or ground connector from battery.
  5. Remove the two accelerator bracket cap screws.
  6. Unhook accelerator to carburetor rod, also throttle control rod and lift off accelerator bracket.
  7. Remove the two bolts from both engine rear supports
  8. Remove both engine pans
  9. Disconnect starter switch push rod and slide rod back out of way.
  10. Remove front splash shield.
  11. Disconnect cut-out, horn and head- lamp wires and remove radiator.
  12. Disconnect carburetor adjusting rod from carburetor and loosen the two exhaust pipe bolts.
  13. Remove the two cylinder front cover screws shown in Fig. 598.
  14. Remove one of the front spring clips, loosen the other and remove starting crank bearing.
  15. Screw off starting crank ratchet nut.
  16. Jack up engine sufficiently high to permit withdrawing fan pulley over top of front cross member (To prevent damaging oil pan, place a small board between top of jack and oil pan.)
  17. Saw off cross member at dotted line shown in Fig. 598.
  18. Enlarge the 1/2 inch hole in front cross member to 3/4 inch Important: Before enlarging the 1/2 inch hole make certain that the center of the hole is exactly 1 inch ahead of the rear flange of the front cross member (see Fig. 599) if not, hole must be filed to suit. After enlarging the hole to 3/4 inch be sure to remove all burrs and cuttings and thoroughly clean out cross member. This is important.
  19. Slip leather washer A-6033 over threaded end of support stud, sliding washer back on stud until flat side of washer rests against flat side of support.
  20. Place a little grease on the bottom of spring A-6031 and position it in bottom of cross member, lining up hole in spring with hole in cross member. The side of the spring which has the raised spring retainers is placed next to cylinder front cover.
  21. Bolt support to cylinder front cover by means of two lock washers A-22330 and two cap screws A-21240.
  22. Replace fan pulley.
  23. Lower engine sufficiently so that springs A-6032 can be slipped over the two bosses on the support and the raised retainers on the flat spring.
  24. Next lower front end of engine down as far as it will go, making sure that neck of leather washer A-6033 lines up with hole in flat spring.
  25. Slip brass bushing A-6034 over threaded end of motor support stud which extends through cross member, making sure that neck of bushing enters hole in cross member.
  26. Place spring A-6035 over stud, then screw on castle nut, running the nut down sufficiently far to permit locking it in place with cotter key.
  27. Next replace the four rear motor supprt screws. If it is necessary to jack up the engine in order to line up the cap screw holes in the rear engine supports, apply the jack under the front radius rod ball cap. After installing the rear motor support screws check the new motor support to make certain that the parts are in exact relationship to each other as shown in Fig 597. This is important. If the leather washer A-6033 is in contact with flat spring A-6031, or if coil springs are closed, one or both of these conditions will absolutely defeat the action of the support.
  28. After tightening the two exhaust pipe clamp bolts, the relation of the front motor support parts should again be checked. This completes the installation of the support and the reassembling of the major parts. The balance of the job can now be built up in the regular way.
  29. Before installing the engine pans, bend up the end of both pans as shown in Fig. 600, making sure that the edge of the pan which has been bent up clears front cross member.
  30. After building up the job make certain there is at least YQ inch clearance between the arm on the universal joint housing cap and the center cross member (see Fig. 601). If there is not at least 1/16 inch clearance, it will be necessary to remove the cap and grind off a little stock from the arm until required clearance is obtained.






If when the rear motor support arms are bolted to the engine the front support does not have from 1/64 to 3/64 clearance between leather washer and top of flat spring, loosen the four bolts holding rear support bracket to motor, also loosen the six small bolts which clamp rear support brackets to frame. Next remove nut and spring and washer on lower end of support stud and jack up front end of motor approximately 3/8 inch. With the front end of the motor raised 3/8 inch, tighten the six small bolts which clamp rear support brackets to frame, then tighten the four bolts holding rear support brackets to engine, next lower front end of engine and reassemble spring, washer and nut. This should provide proper clearance between leather washer and flat spring.

If the lower coil spring is closed and there is excessive clearance between leather washer and top of flat spring, repeat the above operation with the exception that the rear end of the engine is jacked up 3/8 of an inch instead of the front end.